it’s already dark by the time we arrive. the Dead Sea. or, “Yam Hamelach”, the Sea of Salt, in Hebrew. as me and two friends unload the car I wonder which of these names is more descriptive.
it’s quiet.
very quiet.
thoughts in my mind are like marathon runners. only this race is on a loop - someone tore out the finish line and painted the trails back to the start. no one knows. thoughts run the endless race until they face complete exhaustion, when they humbly cross the sideline into the cheering crowds who always accept them without question. there is never a sneer. everyone knows that each of them is always doing its best in trying to interpret the world, even when that interpretation is cruel or unkind. their nylon tops bear the names of their emotive sponsors: “Compassion”, “Ambition”, “Anger”, “Resentment”, “Self-Flagulation”, “Melancholy”, “Ecstacy” etc. they run with blind ambition, in complete oblivion.
some thoughts run with abandon and bliss, endorphines flowing through their bodies. others face excrutiating pains at every footfall. new thoughts hardly ever join the race, only ones that are giving it another shot.
if this sounds tiring, well. it is.
it takes a while for things to quiet down. given the right environment, everything slows down to a more managable pace. things become clear, movements less blurry. the crowds stop handing out water bottles from the sidelines - that endless barrage of rejuvinating stimuli that keeps the race going. suddenly each participant becomes aware of itself, aware of the moment - and suddenly a memory hits: I have been here before. I have run this course. it doesn’t ever end. how strange.
and when this finally happens, I call it peace.
in a place like the Dead Sea, peace is a bit of an inevitablity.
as we spread out our picnic blankets, sleeping bags and a strangely random collection of foodstuff, I register shock in my consciousness. it isn’t used to so much quiet. I opt out of the fire-making arrangements and just sit there, wondering what my mind will come up with next to keep itself busy - to keep itself from experiencing the moment in all its glorified simplicity. I try to watch the race. after a few minutes, I figure it’s just more of the same old: money worries, romantic musings, people I don’t talk to anymore, countries I could be travelling to. situations I hadn’t handled all that well. notes for the future. comments on the past. lists.
the next day I find a small pool of warm fountain water concealed by tall bamboos. a few people occassionally enter in the nude to wash off the mineral mud off their skin. through a manmade tunnel out of tires and wood, the water streams down and out into the sea, only several meters away.

by the stream, two self-proclaimed Rainbow People are washing their crockery. one of them is from Bolivia, the other from Israel.
after some small-talk (I learn that flying to Ethiopia is cheap and that a huge Rainbow Gathering is scheduled to happen there in March), we watch the water flow in silence. I see a small school of tiny silvery fish swimming vigorously upstream.
“wow! check them out.”
the Bolivian woman smiles. “yes, the water’s fresh. that’s their whole life, these little ones - swimming upstream. if they stop, they wash out to the sea and die, because of the salt.”
“that’s incredible. so much effort, just to survive. I wonder if they ever get tired of it.”